Digging the hole:
The hole should always be wider than deep, because it is important that the soil come no higher than the soil line on the trunk. Planting a tree too deeply can kill it. The following measurements will serve as a guide to the size of the hole you will dig for your trees.
Ball Size
Hole Size
Tree Weight
24"
30"W x 18"D
150-200 lbs.
28"
32"W x 24"D
275-500 lbs.
32"
36"W x 24"D
500-600 lbs.
36"
40"W x 30"D
800-1000 lbs.
40"
48"W x 30"D
1100-1300 lbs.
Amending the Soil:
Amending the existing soil with an organic compost is a wise idea where
soil improvement is necessary. However, the use of a 100% compost as
back fill should be avoided. Blending the existing soil with the amendment
provides the root system with the proper blend that assures vigorous root
development. Plant trees in well drained soil only! Even
plants that are "tolerant" to wet soil conditions will usually not survive
in standing water. Elevate the root ball slightly to compensate for
wet conditions.
Fertilization:
The use of soluble, inorganic fertilizer is not recommended in the
planting hole during installation. The potential for burning the root
system far exceeds the benefits. However, organic materials can be
mixed with the back fill soil at the recommended rate. It is important
to follow the recommendations of the manufacturer. At the beginning
of the second growing season, standard surface applied materials such as
triple 16 with trace minerals can be used around the drip line of the tree.
Planting Times:
Early spring or fall are the best times to plant because rainfall is
adequate. In any case, summer watering is recommended the first year
or two to successfully establish the tree. Once or twice a month from
mid June until the fall rains come, put a hose on with just a trickle of water,
and leave for 12 hours or so. Water which is applied to lawns or flower
beds by automated systems or regular sprinklers is inadequate. A mulch
of wood chips or bark 3-4 inches deep will help to retain moisture and moderate
soil temperatures. Mulch should be spread on an area at least four
times the diameter of the root ball, which means the grass should always
be kept well away from the tree trunks to prevent injury and to prevent competition
between grass and trees for water.
Staking:
When winds are a problem, such as on exposed hilltops, or when the
tree has a large, leafy canopy, staking should be done. Wire should
be enclosed with some type of rubber or other material where it comes into
contact with the tree trunk. Two stakes would be adequate, and should
be left in place no longer than a year.
Pruning:
Periodic removal of dead and crossing branches is advised and all pruning
must be carefully done in order not to damage the tree and shorten its life
considerably. Sunset Western Garden Book is an excellent reference guide
for proper pruning techniques.
Wire Baskets:
To Remove or Not: Because Oregon Turf and Tree Farms sells only
large caliper shade trees, we use wire baskets on all of our trees.
They function as support for the root ball, so that it won't fall apart,
thereby destroying the tree roots. Documented field experiments have
proven that tree roots simply grow around the wires and make a complete union,
thereby causing no problems. When planting the trees, the rope holding
the burlap around the tree must be removed. The burlap may be cut
back to the wire and removed.
Fastest lawn in the west!
Oregon Turf and Tree Farms
1-800-426-1335